So, you’ve got your boat, great! But now you just need an easy way to get it in and out of the water. Once you’ve sorted the main hardware, the next big step is choosing the right wood. A ShoreDocker hardware-only system makes life simple by giving you everything from rollers to a winch and galvanized hardware built to handle the water. All that’s left is supplying the lumber yourself.
Systems like the Classic Pontoon Boat Roller Ramp come with the metal components and polyurethane rollers, but the wood is up to you. And choosing it isn’t just about grabbing whatever is cheapest at the store. Your ramp has to cope with constant moisture, sun exposure, heat, and the weight of your boat. The better the wood, the longer your ramp will last, and the safer and sturdier it will feel every time you use it.
In this article we take a look at the things you need to consider, as well as the best wood options for building a DIY boat ramp around your ShoreDocker kit. Keep reading to find out and get inspired. You’ll be on the water in no time!
Why Wood Choice Matters for a DIY Boat Ramp
We touched on this above, but there are many reasons you need to make the right wood choice for your boat ramp. You could have the highest quality galvanized steel parts and polyurethane rollers, but if you have poorly chosen boards it can cause a lot of issues. They could sag under the load causing your hill or pontoons to hang up, it might twist or split, loosening fasteners or braces and it could rot prematurely, particularly near the waterline. Not only this, but it could become slippery or splintered at high-traffic areas, causing a real safety hazard. Think of your hardware kit as the “skeleton” of your boat ramp and the lumber as the “bones and muscles” that hold it all in place. Get the structure right and you’re left with a ramp that feels solid and lasts the test of time.
Tips for the right wood choices for a DIY Boat Ramp
Always Start with Pressure-Treated Lumber
For any ramp that lives near the water, pressure-treated lumber is the baseline. ShoreDocker’s own product descriptions and manuals clearly state that their kits include everything except the pressure-treated lumber, leaving the wood choice and sourcing to you. What you need to look for are ground-contact rated boards for when your ramp will sit on the shore or be partially buried as these sections see the most moisture and are therefore more likely to be damaged by this. You also need to check the treatment type, opting for things like copper-based treatments (such as MCA or CA) which work well for ramps and docks. Finally, let the wood dry! If possible, allow your boards to acclimate and dry slightly before the final assembly to avoid shrinkage and twisting. Pressure-treated lumber gives you the best cost-to-durability ratio and works well both in the short and long term.
Recommended Sizes for Rails and Cross Members
While the exact dimensions you need depend on your boat weight, ramp length and shoreline, there are some dimensions that are recommended.
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Side rails (main beams)
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For around 1,200-lb capacity systems: Pressure-treated 2×6 rails
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For higher-capacity or longer ramps (2,000-lb range): Pressure-treated 2×8 rails
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Cross members
- Typically 2×4 or 2×6 pressure-treated boards, spaced according to the kit instructions
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Stiffener / winch post
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A pressure-treated 4×4 is commonly used as an internal stiffener and for the winch post base.
These sizing recommendations help limit deflection when the boat is being pulled up or lowered, which is critical for keeping the hull aligned on the rollers and preventing the transom from hanging up. Essentially, you’re looking for the most hardy, long-lasting and best way of getting your boat in the water with minimal damage, and this can help achieve this.
Best Wood Species for a Boat Ramp Frame
Because you’re buying pressure-treated lumber, your specific options are usually dictated by what your local yard stocks, but this doesn’t mean there aren’t a few you can choose between. By doing your research ahead of time, you can find the best wood species.
Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) This is the most common wood type thanks to it being strong, stiff and widely available in a range of lengths. A pressure-treated SYP is the default choice for most DIY builders and works very well when it’s shaped correctly and supported as recommended.
Spruce/ Fir/ Hemlock These woods are most common in northern regions and are often sold as mixes, then pressure treated. These woods are known for their remarkable strength-to-weight ratio. Industry experts often prefer SPF lumber because, although it is a lightweight softwood, its strength is better than that of some hardwoods making it a really durable choice.
Natural durable woods This is another choice, particularly useful if you’re adding non-structural features such as a small walkway or bumper boards that see more food traffic than load bearing. THis means you can add naturally durable woods for better aesthetics and extra rot resistance. These aren’t pressure treated and are better when kept above constant splash zones!
For the main frame and rails of a ShoreDocker ramp, it’s best to stay with pressure-treated structural lumber first and foremost.
Planning your board
You should use single-length boards for the side rails where you can, to reduce the number of joints and potential weak spots. It can then be good to use concrete or potato blocks and optional supporting legs to keep the ramp level and limit deflection.
Choosing the right wood for your DIY boat ramp is about more than just heading to the sales and getting the first wood you can find. Stick with pressure-treated lumber in the appropriate sizes to give your ramp plenty of support. Pair your local lumber with a ShoreDocker Classic Pontoon Boat Roller Ramp System, and you get the best of both worlds - a proven galvanized hardware kit plus customized, site-specific wood framing that fits your shoreline and your boat perfectly.