Most dock-buying guides online are written for lakes. They talk about boat traffic, wave action, ice heave, and 20 ft. deep water at the end of piers.
Of course, if you have a half-acre farm pond, none of that applies. But you still need to get a boat in and out of the water.
Small ponds might seem to have fewer issues than lakes, but they present their own class of problems. The bottom of these bodies of water is often soft, the surface doesn't move very much, and the water is shallow. Lake levels can drop throughout the summer with high temperatures, low rainfall, and evaporation.
Ultimately, these factors determine the right dock kit for you, so be honest with yourself about what you need before you shop.
What makes ponds different?
As mentioned briefly in the introduction, several things make ponds different from other water bodies.
Depth changes seasonally
The depth of ponds can change significantly from one season to another. Evaporation and summer dry spells, especially between spring and late August, can cause pond water levels to drop significantly. They can also rise substantially over the winter, especially in areas with heavy rainfall and low temperatures in January and February.
There's no wave action
There's no wave action on a conventional small pond, so you don't need heavy anchoring or bracing. This is one way pond docks can be simpler than conventional lake docks, which often require more hardware.
Shadow water at the edges
Furthermore, water can be very shallow at the edge of ponds (more so than on most lakes). Sometimes you only have 1 to 3 ft to work with.
The bottom is soft
Finally, most ponds have soft bottoms thanks to decaying vegetation and leaf litter. It’s not uncommon to have several inches of muck sitting on top of firmer ground, ruling out many standard dock options.
What comes with a pond dock Kit?
A pond dock kit includes various accessories and parts. Unfortunately, “kit” can mean different things to different manufacturers.
Complete kits ship with everything you need. You get fasteners, frame decking, and a support system. All you need to do is assemble it, and you're done. You don't have to go back on another shopping spree.
A “hardware kit” is a bit different. It provides all of the engineered parts and assembly instructions you need.
The upshot is that it can be significantly cheaper to do things this way, especially if you go to a local lumber mill. But you'll need to buy your own pressure-treated timber locally. The downside is that you don't get everything you need in a single delivery.
Whichever option you choose, make sure it suits your pond. You'll need marine-grade aluminum, galvanized steel, and stainless steel fasteners.
Stationary versus floating: which is best for a small pond?
Think carefully about which system, stationary or floating, is going to be best for your pond.
Stationary docks sit on posts or a crib driven into the bottom. They don't shift when you step on the edge, and they tend to be the cheaper option when you are operating in shallow water. Plus, there are fewer structural requirements.
The downside is the bottom. A stationary dock has to transfer all its weight onto various contact points, and those aren't always available when the bottom has a foot of deep muck.
Floating docks sit on sealed floats and rise and fall with the water level, which isn't as important for ponds as it is for tides or lakes, for example. They don't put any load on the muck or sediment at the bottom, which can make them more reliable and reduce shimming maintenance costs.
The downside is depth. Most floating sections need around 18 to 24 in. of water to float freely. If you have a particularly shallow pond, they may not be appropriate.
Sizing and placement
On a small pond, you don't usually need an enormous dock. A 4 ft by 8 ft or 4 ft by 12 ft platform is usually enough to tie up a small boat without taking up much water space. Longer docks usually don't provide additional benefits and often add high cost and maintenance.
When placing your dock, locate it at the deepest edge with relatively easy access from the bank. Look for an upwind site so that the wind can push pollen, algae, and other floating debris away from your dock structure. This way, sediment can collect away from your dock.
Double-check the state and local rules regarding regulated wetlands and waterways connected to your pond. Your county office should be able to tell you over the phone whether it's okay to proceed with a dock in your chosen location.
Adding PWC launching or a boat
Docks are for tying up boats, not launching them. Therefore, you'll need to consider whether you need a separate structure to get the boat into the water. Mechanical lifts need depth and a solid footing, while ramps can scratch your hull.
We believe roller ramps are the best option. These use a shore-mounted track fitted with rollers and a winch, so you can crank boats out of the water and store them on the bank. It's an ideal solution for ponds because the load sits on the shore instead of the pond bottom.
ShoreDocker builds these as DIY kits in both formats described above. The Classic PWC / Jet Ski Ramp System is $399.99 for a 1,200 lb capacity hardware kit you finish with your own lumber, while the Roll-N-Go Premium PWC/Jet Ski system is $999.00 in ready-to-assemble aluminum. For small boats, the Classic 2000 Series handles up to 2,000 lbs at $599.99.
Browse ShoreDocker's full range of roller ramp kits or call (866) 876-5548 to talk through your shoreline.